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Pumpkin Marmalade

Can I just tell you? It’s 7:30am on a gorgeous Sunday morning in October and I’ve been up for a while…

Believe it or not I love early weekend mornings, especially this time of year. On most eeeeearly mornings up here in the Berkshires, when the sky is still dark, I can see a gazillion stars in the sky. A gazillion.

I turn the heat up, or better yet, start a fire in the wood stove and listen to the wind whip around through the trees. Before I can actually see the sun come over the ridge, there is a gradual, monotone lightening of the sky and the frost-covered grass. A graveyard gray sweeps over the landscape. Slowly & silently.

Sitting at my kitchen table with a cup of tea watching the sun come up in the fall is like, the ultimate in coziness. As the sun gets closer to revealing itself above the horizon of trees the sky starts to reflect wisps of pink, orange, & blue.

Photoshop ain’t got nuttin’ on Mother Nature. When the sun finally hits the leaves of the trees, it’s an explosion of autumnal colors above the still deep green of the field. And in the middle of it all, the serenity of the dozen or so hay bales laying-in-waiting for the farmer to haul them away.

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Eventually the whole thing just becomes too ridiculously gorgeous to even contemplate. Know what I mean? The preciousness of all of this is that much more acute because we all know it’s fleeting.

Soon the graveyard gray will come earlier, and stay longer. The wind will whip harder and for us (M & me) it means that we are packing up two cats who don’t particularly like to travel, some cookbooks I can’t live without, 1/2 a larder full of jams, pickles and a myriad of other preserves, a bunch of work files, 2 laptops and whatever other sundries we deem necessary for the next 6 months that we park ourselves fairly permanently in LIC.

And like those little seed garlic cloves that got pushed in the ground at just about every farm and garden plot in these parts this weekend, my desire to be back up in the Berkshires is buried, but not necessarily dormant, until spring.

Lavender Syrup

Isn’t this gorgeous? Don’t hate me, but I was there! Talk about paradise:

If you’ve been over here lately, then you know that M and I have been traveling around Turkey for the last two weeks. You’ll also know that I have become completely invigorated by the old food ways that are still in practice in that part of the world. I think my kitchen is forever changed. It’s kinda amazing.

Then I came back to New England, western Massachusetts to be exact. I came home to this:

And this:

And these:

Fiery Carrot Pickle

Fiery Carrot Pickle

Adapted from At Home with Madhur Jaffrey

12 medium carrots, chopped into 3/4 inch pieces
1 cup Sri Lankan mustard
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar

Directions:

1. Stir vinegar into mustard
2. Parboil carrots for 30 seconds, drain.
3. Mix mustard into warm carrots. Let cool.
4. Let flavors meld for 3 days in fridge before eating.

Lasts approximately 1 month in the fridge.

Can Jam October Round Up: Chile Peppers

Oooh, this month was on fire! Chileheads, my peeps, this one is for you…

Pickles, Salsas & Chutneys

apple hatch pepper chutney – the cosmic cowgirl cowgirl, you have got it going on IMO. I bet this is flying off those market shelves, right?

ancho chile barbecue sauce – married …with dinner, don’t you just love when you get one over on Heinz?

charred chile barbacue sauce – local kitchen, this looks hot! (By that I mean good, you know that, right?) and omg the apple jalapeño preserves for pouring over ice cream? Genius!

chili & vegetable tid-bits – knit & knosh, these are beayootiful! And I love that you paid careful attention to safety while simultaneously utilizing a mixture of veggies that was just right for you and yours!

corn relish – mother’s kitchen, isn’t canning great for stretching the season of our favorite veggies? Your family might just be wishing for some corn in January and guess what then? Super mom to the rescue!

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honeyed garlic jaleneños – grow & resist, hey, this is like what I did! (Except mine are cayenne). Did the oil get all up in your canner?

marinated peppers – what Julia ate, why I love the can jam reason #kazillion: I pour over Linda’s book & still I skipped right over this. I agree the oil feels uncanny, but I trust her and omg antipasti in a jar. Next year I’m growing a bunch of sweets for this!

pa sportsman’s club sweet-hot wax peppers – put a lid on it, I’m a sucker for nostalgia in a jar…Does your mom give it an A+?

peter piper’s pickled pepper relish – mock paper scissors, a solid pickled pepper recipe right here, makin’ me wish I had a grilled cheese to put it on right now!

pickled carrots with habanero – wine book girl, this is a basic and very good pickled carrot recipe. And the addition of habanero is very appropriate, I like it!

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pickled peppers – thinking out loud, that dog wants those peppers… Make sure he has gloves on before you give him some. 🙂 And make some more o’ these next time, ’cause I know you’re gonna need them past November!

pickled peppers – putting by, a basic pepper pickling recipe right here! (And a lesson in how giving gives back, especially if it’s to a farmer at the end of the season I might add!)

pickled roasted peppers – bigger than a breadbox, I bet you Peter didn’t roast his peck of pickles – but Mimi sure did – her fifth of a peck that is!

salsa verde – backyard farms, and red hot chili jelly! …And oh no, about the pectin problem. Jeeesh!

spicy bread & butter zucchini pickles – locally preserved, did you taste them yet? Was the chipotle just what the doctor ordered for these picklz? (Oh, and please do tell about the spicy quince pickles!)

spicy red peppers & red onion chutney – market life, this looks tasty! Bring on the chutney!

sweet chile sauce – the artisanry of acorn cottage, of course and then there’s salsa verde, and jalapeño jelly too! Jalalooya!

Onions Limone Chutney

Let me tell ya the story about onions limone. Ya see, onions was a big talker. Until one day, the boss told me to give onions the silent treatment. Know what I’m sayin? I did a real clean job.

‘Cause that’s what I do. I’m not sayin’ a couple-a-few innocents didn’t get caught in the mix. These things happen.

Regardless, I get the job done.

Onions Limone Chutney

Adapted from Jellies, Jams & Chutneys by Thane Prince
1/2 pound red onions (about 1 medium-large), diced
1/2 pound lemons (about 3 medium)
4 & 1/2 ounces dried apricots, chopped
4 garlic cloves
1 1/2 inch slice of ginger
3 dried red chiles
7 ounces demerara sugar – or raw
1 tablespoon black mustard seeds
1 tablespoon salt
1 cup white wine vinegar
1/2 pint canning jars or smaller
yield: 1 & 1/2 pints approximately

 

Directions:

1. Squeeze the lemons and set juice aside.

2. Scrape the flesh from the lemon peels and discard. Slice and then dice the cleaned lemon shells.

3. Peel the garlic and ginger and process to a paste with the dried chilis. You can use a mini processor, a wet/dry spice grinder or a good old fashioned mortar and pestle.

4. Put everything into a preserving pot including the reserved lemon juice. Heat on medium low until the sugar melts and then turn up the heat to medium high and bring to a boil. Simmer until mixture thickens – about 20-30 minutes.

You know when it reaches sufficient thickness when you slide your stirring spoon across the bottom of the pot and the chutney wavers on either side for a second or two before it melts back over itself.

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5. This chutney is quite thick and like me, you may have a bit of trouble getting all of the air pockets out of the sides. Be sure to use a knife or back of spoon to run around the inside sides and give the jar a little bang and side to side shuffle on the counter-top when filling.

6. Hot water bath process for 10 minutes.

To allow the flavors to fully flourish, it is best to let this chutney rest for 2-3 weeks before indulging. This recipe can easily be doubled.

This little chutney packs a powerful punch, and definitely has an Eastern flair. I would say skip the ubiquitous chutney & sharp cheese pairing with this one and go right for the curries, stir-frys and one dish Indian and Southeast Asian inspired meals. Or simply use it stirred into a rice or grain as the flavoring agent.

(Ok, I couldn’t wait – we had it last night with rice and a quick Indian shrimp stir-fry and it really was the perfect pairing! I served it alongside one of our go to lemon pickles and it was so good we ended up stirring this onions limone right into our rice and forgoing the lemon pickle altogether! (Go figure!)

Quince & Cranberry Holiday Preserves

Remember that red stuff in a can that added sour-sweetness to the turkey, stuffing and mashed potatoes? Of course you do. This could most certainly be enjoyed with all of the above mentioned pairings. And though it has the traditional tart-sweet flavor, the quince and candied ginger add a toothsome chutney-esque zing. Plus I can’t stop eating it on top of chevre each morning ever since it’s inception. I can only imagine it slathered across one of those warmed holiday brie wheels. Or nestled comfortably inside the indent of a nut-and-buttery thumbprint cookie.

To top all of this off, it’s about the simplest preserve I’ve ever made. So if you’ve been thinking about learning how to jam, then I say this one is for you. Now just imagine arriving, on Thanksgiving day, or another some-such winter holiday feast, with a jar or two of this delight up your sleeve.

If word gets out you might just find yourself invited to a tad more of those little shindigs come next holiday season, and you certainly want that, don’t you? Of course you do.

Quince & Cranberry Holiday Preserves

2 & 1/2 pounds fresh cranberries
1 & 3/4 pounds quince, peeled and cut into 3/4 inch cubes
6 ounces candied ginger, sliced very thin
5 cups sugar
5 cups water
pint and half pint mason jars

Yield: approximately 6 pints

Directions:

1. Place 2 or 3 small plates in freezer to test set later on, prepare jars for hot water bath processing. No need to sterilize as processing time is 10 minutes.

2. Place sugar and water in a non-reactive (stainless steel, or enameled cast iron) pan and heat on low until sugar is dissolved. Turn up heat and bring to a boil.

3. Once boiled, add quince and bring to a boil again. Lower heat and simmer for a good hour until quince turn red and syrup begins to thicken.

4. Add candied ginger slices and whole cranberries, bring to a boil, continue boiling on medium-high until the cranberries pop and soften. Cook until set, approximately 20 minutes. Test set by placing a teaspoonful on a frozen plate. Put plate back in freezer for 30 seconds. Run finger through. If it wrinkles even slightly under your finger, it is set. Make sure to turn the stove off as you are testing as you don’t want to over set it as you are testing. If on the first try you find that it is not set, turn up the heat and try again in another minute or two.

5. Fill jars leaving 1/4 inch headspace and hot water bath process for 10 minutes.

You can easily cut this recipe in half, forgo the canning part, and slide it right into the fridge for use during the holiday season if you don’t feel like getting your hands wet just yet!

Whole Pickled Blueberries

Did you ever wish a blueberry was a tomato? Probably not. Perhaps if you’ve had to become as familiar with late season blight as we’ve had to here in the northeast, you might have. But never-you-mind because even if you have, thousands of tomatoes falling off your bushes and you’re eating juicy heirloom tomatoes out of hand at every meal and your bottling your year’s supply of sauce and your pickling the green ones and salsa-ing the red ones…

Even if you are doing all of that I say this: tomatoes ain’t got nothin’ on blueberries. I mean, tomatoes are peachy and all but… blueberries go better with champagne. But seriously folks. Ahem. All tomato envy aside (ok I said it!), this is the berry thing that I have been searching for!

It’s sweet and kind of jammy, but with a delicious pickled tang. The berries remain whole so the texture is divine, and the spices give it a hint of exotica that pairs as well with (dare I say) a meaty (free range, organic, grass-fed, happy life and all that jazz) main course or a scoop of frozen dessert.

Whole Pickled Blueberries

Adapted from The Joy of Pickling

2 quarts blueberries (firm but ripe)
14 cloves
12 allspice berries
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
2 cinnamon sticks (about 2 inches each)
1 1/2 cups champagne vinegar (or white wine vinegar)
2 cups sugar (I use raw)
3 pint or 6 1/2 pint canning jars

Yield: approximately 3 pints

Chewy Spicy (Dried Fruit) Chutney

I remember a more innocent time when I said I didn’t like garlic with fruit. And then another time when I confessed I wasn’t a chutney fan.

That was then. I think it was onionz limone that finally put me over the edge…those illicit little jars of toothsome lemony-spiced-pucker-in-your-mouth-deliciousness didn’t last long around here. So, this time I decided to unabashedly dive right in.

I’m talking fatto garlic cloves, a rotund and juicy onion, gobs of ginger, a lotta dried hot pepper and some big chewy bits of fruit. This is chutney on steroids, jersey shore chutney if you will. This chutney is damn proud to be a chutney and he’ll tell ya about it in every single bite.

If this chutney had hair, you wouldn’t dare run your hands through it. This chutney would hog the bathroom mirror. This chutney is a situation.

Chewy Spicy Chutney

3/4 lb. dried fruit – (I used raisins, sour cherries, figs and apricots. You can also use apples, peaches, pears, blueberries, mango, papaya, etc. Use any combo you like, with at least 4 different types of fruit)
1 & 1/2 lbs. apples (or pears, peaches, plums)
3/4 lb. light brown sugar
2 & 1/4 cups apple cider vinegar

1 large red onion, diced (or yellow, or 2 large shallots)
4 plump garlic cloves, chopped
2 tablespoons grated ginger
2 dried extra hot chiles (or to taste) – crushed
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 pint or smaller mason jars

yield: approximately 3 & 1/2 pints

Directions:

1. Prepare jars for hot water bath processing. No need to sterilize as filled jars will be processed for 10 minutes.

2. Leave dried berries and raisins whole, cut larger fruit into 1/2 inch pieces. Peel and core apples, chop into hefty 1 inch pieces.

3. Add everything to a non-reactive pan, stir to combine. Heat on low until sugar is fully dissolved.

4. Turn up the heat and bring to a boil. Once boiling, lower heat to simmer. Simmer until desired thickness. Mine took approximately 30 minutes.

5. Fill hot jars and hot water bath process for 10 minutes. You will need to run a plastic chopstick or knife around the inside rim of jar to release air bubbles before putting on lid.

This will thicken fairly quickly as far as chutneys go because of the bulky dried fruit. The apples will break down to form the base, but if you’ve cut the apples in large inch-sized pieces there should be some not-quite cooked down apple bits remaining. This will add to the chutney’s overall chunkiness.

This chutney will taste best if you let it hang out on the shelf for 3-6 weeks before opening.

I am a full-fledged chutney fan now – I really love this chutney! (I can’t wait to taste it after the 3 week mark!) and I am excited about the endless possibilities of dried & fresh fruit combos. While I went for texture and heat here, and did not add spices, I can see taking this basic recipe in many directions by adding spices the likes of mustard and fennel seeds, coriander, anise, etc. and of course all manner of spice powders.

Learning: while this is not a new concept around these parts, again and again I am reminded how DIY just renders everything better! Me thinks I was not previously enamored by bottled chutneys because even the best store-bought cannot compare to doing it yourself!

Taking & Making Stock

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Maybe it’s my utilitarian bent, but there’s something I find exhilarating about ‘cleaning up the garden’ right around the break of fall.

On a good year, mid-September is about the time I’ve finally had my fill of fresh tomatoes, cucumbers and melons. It’s when the tentative chill of evening and early morning reawakens a taste for warming meals: soups, risottos, braised vegetables…You know, comfort food.

Let’s face it, in September the veggies in the garden (or your local farmer’s market) are certainly no spring chickens anymore.

They may look a tad less precocious than they did in their youth but, they still got good flavor. And that’s exactly what I’m looking for in a good vegetable stock. You?

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And yes it’s true that the making of vegetable stock is a wonderful way to ‘clean up the garden’ or to take advantage of the dwindling farmer’s market prices, and of course to give meaning and purpose to those vegetables about to enter mid-life.

But I would make it regardless of those things because having delicious vegetable stock is essential in my kitchen (and will be in yours too if you give it a try) throughout the winter months. It adds depth and deftness when making all the things I want to eat when it’s cold outside.

So take stock of your garden or your farmer’s market this month and make stock!

Here are my two essentials, with these I can make just about any dish or soup – east or west. I freeze them in quart containers and ice cubes (which I place in freezer bags once frozen in trays for 24 hours). The quarts I use for soups, risottos and the like, and the cubes I use whenever I need a burst of flavor in braises, sauces, beans, stir-frys, etc. They will last well in the freezer for a good 6 months.