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Rhubarb & Shrunken Strawberry Head Jam

Yeah I know as well as you do that strawberries don’t have heads but I can call it that if I want. Why? Because this past weekend, in one of my finer pilgrim moments (ever wonder if they were actually grim?) I made 21 jars of it.

Ok, so they may not have heads (the strawberries that is) but they are shrunken, which intensifies their berryness. And bobbing around in a sea of rhubarb, well let me just say….if an actual pilgrim actually made this oh I don’t know… she would have been hanged.
(I am in Massachusetts you know).

It’s that good. Now on to the reason I brought up pilgrims in the first place…this jam takes a few days to make. I know, I know, why take a few days to jam strawberries & rhubarb when there are so many recipes out there that do it in a day…a couple of hours even. Because it’s worth it.

This is beyond slow food people …it’s pilgrim time! speaking of pilgrimages, this year I was not alone at thompson finch farm. M’s mom, otherwise known as my favorite mother-in-law, helped with the 40 pound bounty.

She likes strawberries.

See:
It’s all about timing it correctly and it is not difficult at all, so get that b outta your bonnet and get on it!

Rhubarb & Shrunken Strawberry Head Jam

4 1/2 pounds strawberries – after the hull
7 1/2 cups of sugar*
juice of 2 smallish lemons

2 1/4 pounds rhubarb – sliced lengthwise, then diced
3 3/4 cups sugar*
Juice of 1 smallish lemon
About 15 half pint jars, or 8 pint jars

*I always use raw sugar which is why my jams look a bit darker than most. I know that most jamming books suggest white sugar so as not to darken the color or alter the taste. I rarely eat white sugar so I can’t bring myself to put it in jams. It’s up to you, just don’t use brown or any other from of sweetener or you will alter the color/taste/gel greatly.

This recipe can easily be cut in half. Yes, the ingredients are in two separate groups because you have to make two separate jams. I will assume you want to make it in the evening and lay it out that way, but you can switch it around to do the final jamming in the morning if that better suits you. Here goes:

Day 1 -in the am
1. Rinse and drain the strawberries before they are hulled, I even dry them out on a paper towel first before I hull them to get off excess water. To hull just take the green off, don’t dig in the the center of the berry. keep them whole.

2. Place them in a stainless steel pot with sugar (just the 7 1/2 cups). Start with a layer of berries and then a layer of sugar, etc. Pour juice of 2 lemons over. Place top on pot and let macerate out of fridge for 8 or so hours.

Day 1 -in the pm
1. Separate the berries from the juice – use a handled skimmer or strainer and take the berries out and place them in a bowl, keeping the juice in the pan. I like to place the berries in a colander over a bowl, and then pour the excess juice back in the pan. Remember you are trying to keep the strawberries whole and intact so you want to be careful. Bring the juice to a boil and boil for 5 minutes. Take off heat and place the strawberries back in the hot syrup. Cover and leave to macerate out of fridge overnight.

Day 2 -in the am
1. Keeping the strawberries in the syrup this time bring the whole thing to a boil. Once it boils take off heat and let macerate for 8 hours out of fridge.

Day 2 -in the pm
Bring strawberry mixture to boil then macerate as above.

Day 3 -in the am
Bring strawberry mixture to boil then macerate as above.

1. Clean and mince rhubarb and place in a bowl with remaining sugar and juice of 1 lemon. you can stir this a bit. Let this macerate out of fridge until ready to jam.

2. Get your jars together – clean them in hot soapy water or put in the dishwasher.

Day 3 -in the pm
Bring strawberry mixture to boil and macerate as above.

(You’re not seeing quadruple people, this boiling of the berries has to be done 4 times, that’s how we get shrunken strawberry heads!)

Here’s where it all kicks in so plan accordingly! Allow yourself a couple of hours to jam.

1. Start by placing your clean jars in the canning pot and turning up the heat to sterilize them in boiling water for 10 minutes. You should also place 3 small plates in the freezer – you will use these to check the set later.

2. Separate the berries from the syrup as in step 1 under day 1 -in the pm.

3. Bring the syrup to the boil and boil for 5 minutes.

4. Return the berries to pan and bring to the boil. Make sure it comes back to a solid boil, skim foam gently if needed. Take off heat.

5. Separate the rhubarb from its juice (using the same technique as the strawberries). Pour syrup into its own pan and bring it to a boil. Continue boiling until it reaches 221 degrees on a candy thermometer, skimming any foam off of the top.

6. Add the diced rhubarb and bring back to a boil. Boil for 5 minutes, continuing to skim if needed.

7. Combine rhubarb and strawberry mixtures and bring to a boil for 3 minutes or until set. To check, take off the heat and place a teaspoon of jam on one of the frozen plates. Place the plate back in the freezer for about a minute. Then run finger through jam and see if it it wrinkles under your finger slightly. If it is not sufficiently set, bring back to a boil for another minute and then try again. You may need to do this a couple of times.

There is no store-bought pectin here, and strawberries are not high in natural pectin at all, so do not expect this jam to be highly gelled. But it will gel sufficiently and not be runny for sure. You don’t want to overcook this, the strawberries should remain whole and the pieces of diced rhubarb fairly intact.

Meanwhile, back at the canning pot; I trust that your jars have been boiling for at least 10 minutes (once they have, turn burner on low).

8. Boil filled jars for 5 minutes in a hot water bath and there you have it! See those little strawberry heads in there? -yum!
One more thing that you might find useful, strawberries freeze beautifully, and here’s the trick:

1. Rinse them in cold water before you hull them.
2. Drain and place on paper towel.
3. Hull – just take the green leaves off – do not dig into berry.
4. Place on cookie sheet or plates and freeze.
5. Once frozen, put them in bags.

Off My Larder Shelf: Put ‘Em Up! Fruit

Here in the northeast, I like to think of this time of year as almost summer. Because even if I’m wearing a scarf when going outside, or need to pull out my puffy coat for one final day or two, when the light starts to change, everything changes. Without fail, one fine evening in March or April when I’m cooking dinner in my city digs, I look up and realize – damz! It’s still bright outside! And it’s uphill from there until at least October as far as I’m concerned.

As soon as it’s almost summer I long to get my paws on some luscious summer fruit. Rhubarb first, then strawberries, gooseberries, and before long an abundance of blues hang like baubles right outside my door complete with birds diving like missiles directly into the surrounding nets for a forbidden taste. Peaches, plums, apricots, oh, and how could I forget the most fleeting of all – raspberries.

This particular almost summer I am happy to get my paws on a brand new preserving book, the sequel in fact to one of the best all around preserving books of recent years.  This one focuses on, you guessed it, fruit!

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Having worked quite a bit with Sherri’s first preserving book, I was very excited to receive my copy of put ‘em up! fruit from her generous publisher, Storey. A lot of great recipes here for sure – blueberry ketchup (I must try!) grapefruit sections in lavender syrup, maraschino cherries (if that doesn’t impress your friends, nothing will!) and five spice plum sauce to name just a few. What I also love about this book is the troubleshooting section – concise instructions and tips on how to avoid such mishaps as the dreaded fruit float, siphoning, cloudy jelly, and preserves too thick or too thin. There’s also primers on acid, pectin, and reaching the gel point – essential things to know when putting your fruit in jars.

Can Amongst Yourselves

It’s true confession time. I haven’t canned a damn thing since I put a bunch of rhubarb in jars back in early June. There, I said it.

There’s a few reasons for that, and given all the roarin’ about canning that has happened around here in the past, I feel I owe you an explanation:

My work is full speed ahead and summer is the busiest time for me. It seems a recurring theme that each summer I get busier and busier. So there’s that. My garden has been taking up a lot of my ‘free’ time. This year’s drought has turned the northeast growing season on its roots. And the watering, son, the watering. I’m not used to it as Berkshire summers aren’t Berkshire summers without all the rain.

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And then there’s the deer, note the photo of the bean patch below was taken before the deer discovered how tasty it was. You don’t even want to see the chewed-to-pieces sweet cherry tree, or my newly discovered trampled shallot patch. Yes I know, it’s time to get more fencing – or a big dog. I even chose to forgo my summer kimchi-making. It’s been too damn hot and I was concerned the fermenting would happen too fast and the subtlety of flavor lost. Which means we’ve been frantically stir-frying a lot of savoy. We are hoping (of course) that this Mediterranean-like climate will be good for the tomatoes, peppers and eggplants. The latter two always iffy in these hills. And so, we tend to them with even greater care.

Just because I haven’t hot-water bath canned since June or kimchied even, doesn’t mean I haven’t put anything in jars. We shook a year’s worth of butter again a few weeks ago. Yup, 8 gallons of cream plus a gallon of buttermilk set us up all of last year. We still had one jar left when we made the new and it tasted as fresh as the day it was made. The one below is the new batch courtesy of this morning’s breakfast.

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If you’ve ever wondered what a year’s worth of butter looks like there’s a shot of my newly stocked cellar freezer (please excuse the lighting). Some are in large jars, they are to be made into ghee or used for baking. The smaller jars are for slathering and are either sweet or cultured and various forms of salted, i.e. salted, salty, and chunky salt.

Since we’re down here, my cellar was built somewhere from the 1830-50′s. When we bought the house there were a kazillion spiderwebs everywhere here. They were as thick as dreads. Nothing a little sweeping and vacuuming couldn’t fix. Because of the modern day furnace that we installed it’s not a good root cellar – unfortunately, it doesn’t get cold enough. It makes for a great larder though, it’s good enough for wine-storage (essential) and I’ve even fermented down here in summers hot but not as hot as this. Those crocks are empty now though.

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(Don’t worry, there will be cabbage in the fall garden and kimchi to be made!) and yes that is cheap Mexican beer at the bottom, and a bottle of dom on the top. What can I say? I like to go high-low.

Back to what I brought you down here for: jars. The empty ones and the full ones. See all those sad, empty jars on the shelving on the left? That side is usually much more sparse at this point in the summer as the jars make their way (I help them of course) up the cellar stairs and to my kitchen where I fill and seal them with provisions for the coming year. Then I bring them back down again and put them on the shelf to the right. I have so many still-empty jars this year, they’ve encroached on the shelves to the right! But above and below that shelf you can see some full jars, and there are more of them too, upstairs in the kitchen, and at my city digz.


You see, with my very busy and somewhat stressful work schedule, and my gardener-turned-farmer(apparently)-attitude, I’ve had to set some boundaries with myself, lest I be worn-out by summer’s end:

  1. Only preserve what I am growing myself.

  2. Use up what I have! With just the two of us, we don’t plow through a ton of sweet preserves, even factoring in gift-giving.

  3. It’s ok to meander though my very limited free time and do what I feel like doing, even if it is relaxing and not necessarily productive (this is a hard one for me as tigresses are industrious by nature).

With that, I want to call attention to the index page on this site, in which I hope to have made it very easy to find what you are looking for. because there is a wealth of canning recipes on this site, and just because I’m not churning out a bunch of new recipes this summer doesn’t mean there are not a bunch here for you to churn out.

By way of summery sweet stuff, I’ve still got 2011 smokin’ strawberry jam, nectarine preserves, gooseberry chutney with Bengali spice, raspberry rose jam, and sour cherry preserves left in my larder. Hell, I’ve got 2011 rhubeena still and I’ve got a whole new batch of everything rhubarb for 2012 including my absolute favorite jam of all lavender rhubarb.

I’m not sayin’ that you won’t see more canning recipes around here this summer, I’m just sayin’ that my freezer may be my new best friend and while I’m in the garden…

Can amongst yourselves.

Preserved Lemons of the Maghreb

By now most of you that have spent anytime around here at all know

I have a thing for Indian lemon pickle. Those fine specimens of fermented perfection that do me right everywhere from curries, to flatbreads to yogurt and rice… You may even know that I got married in Rajasthan and traveled around for a month, where I kid you not –
that whole month I never longed for a morsel of any other persuasion than those sultry masalas.

But here’s the thing- Way before I lost, for a moment, my breath at the first sight of the Taj Mahal. Or tried to coax it back in & out, respectively, in the middle of the night while traveling down a 4 lane highway at 70mph realizing I was looking straight into the eyes of a caravan of cargo carrying camels…

I was seduced by this:

 

 

a

 

 

 

 

 

 

And this too:


Lest you think my palate promiscuous, let me explain:

(I sort of half prepared a discourse about growing up in an Italian-American-Slovakian home and while those flavors and textures will always be part of who I am, my world literally opened up when I began to experience the world. Not only by the good fortune and wherewithal of actually getting to these places, but by experiencing them on the palate. And how, even when one cannot actually trot around to all those faraway places, the palate can. And by studying world food cultures, one can learn a whole lotta ’bout the cultures of the world.)

But basically all I’m sayin’ is variety is the spice of life baby. (Ok, my palate’s a tramp)

Carrots: Buttered & Jammed

 

So I’m there with my 5 lb. bag of carrots thumbing though a myriad of canning books looking for something to get excited about when as luck would have it, excitement came knocking at my door.

By way of a friendly neighbor carrying a paper bag swelling it seemed with these:

Of those carrots and apples, I made this:

Another thing that happens around this time of year: I start to get antsy about using up all of my freezer-preserved produce in anticipation of the coming season. Rhubarb and strawberries’ days are numbered in the late winter months because they are some of the first things to spring forth in the new season. These two happenings combined prompted me to make this:

Without further ado:

Carrot Apple Butter with Cardamom

Tigress’ Best Books of 2011

I’ve been so excited about my holiday list of my fave preserving and DIY books of 2011 that I decided to have a big ole’ cyber party on Facebook and give ’em all away!

It’s true!

I have so much to say: about the party, about the books, about how-we-gonna-have-one-of-those-holiday-cookie-parties in cyberspace?

Let me start with the books – the books that would totally be on my holiday wish list (and should be on yours!) if I didn’t already have every last one. I love these books!

Can it, Bottle it, Smoke it

by Karen Solomon is chock full of beautiful photos and clear instruction on things like plum catsup, carrot almond jam and pickled grapes. But the best part of Karen’s book is that she goes even further afield in her DIY kitchen. There’s a ‘stalk it’ section with tortilla chips, a ‘smoke it’ section with chipotle peppers in adobe sauce, and ‘munch it’ with crunchy lentil snacks. Need I say more?

The Hip Girl’s Guide to Homemaking

Kate Payne and I go way back. I’ve been following her blog since it’s inception, and we even picked strawberries together once. Even if those facts weren’t true, I would still say that Kate has written a gem of a book. There isn’t a thing about homemaking left uncovered; hip décor on a budget, composting, environmentally friendly cleaning products, entertaining with style (while on a budget) canning, bread-baking, button-mending. She’s got the Martha gene, but cooler, much cooler. Even pilgrim me, whose had my house for quite some time now, learned a thing or ten from Kate. This book should be on your holiday gift list for anyone learning how to build a (hip) home.

Canning for a New Generation

by Lianne Krissoff has been out since 2010. I’ll be perfectly honest, it got lost in the shuffle of a gazillion preserving books that launched in 2010. But now that I finally have it in my paws, I can tell you it is definitely a cut above the rest. It delivers exactly what it promises; bold fresh flavors for the modern pantry. And, you gotta love a book that ends with a chapter entitled ‘Baked and Creamy Things to put Preserves on’.

The Urban Farm Handbook

by Annette Cottrell and Joshua Mchnichols is more than just a resource for city folk who want to take control of what they eat, it’s an inspiration. I’ve been following Annette’s blog since she began her journey in 2009 and all is can say is, wow! She did it – in the city! Yes, you can grow your own food – and a lot of it – on a little plot of city land. If you’re serious about getting closer to your food source, buy this book. But please, don’t take my word for it, you can view the first 50 pages on the urban farm handbook website.

We Sure Can!

by Sarah Hood is a fun book loaded with great canning recipes. What’s different about Sarah’s book is the spotlight she puts on the online canning and preserving community. Which, in case you haven’t noticed, has exploded in the last three years. You’ll find a short interview with yours truly and a couple of my recipes too. I’m not the only one – many of your fave canning and preserving bloggers are featured here.

Tart and Sweet

by Kelly Geary and Jessie Knadler hasn’t left my kitchen since I received a copy last spring. Like I said in April, out of the 101 recipes, there’s like 99 that I want to try. It’s been a joy to dig into this book and play with the modern flavors presented by these two talented preservers. And with a winter chapter that contains things like grapefruit honey jam and candied kumquats with cinnamon and star anise, this book is not leaving my kitchen anytime soon.

Homemade Living Series

Yes, I’m giving away Ashley English’s entire series to one lucky winner! Another one of my blogging buddies, I’ve been diggin’ Ashley’s blog since the beginning. This is a set of gorgeous hardback books – a great gift for anyone interested in small-scale homesteading. All four of the books are so well done; canning and preserving covers the classic recipes every beginner wants, and then offers up things like rhubarb and amaretto chutney. The home dairy book is one of the absolute best on the market – and has replaced my old stand-by. If you are thinking of dabbling in dairy, you want this book. While I don’t have my own just yet, keeping bees, and keeping chickens has me longing for that day. And I know I’ll be prepared, ’cause I’ve been pining over these books.

Sweet Preserved Kumquats

Sun pods

Shaped like an oversized grape, tastes like a very sweet lemon that can be eaten whole, peel and all, even when plucked directly from the tree.

No wonder why I love these little buggers.

Sweet Preserved Kumquats

1 & 1/2 pound organic kumquats
juice of 4 lemons (about 2/3 of a cup)
4 tablespoons sea salt
1 tablespoon fennel seeds, lightly crushed
1 tablespoon black pepper, crushed
2 teaspoons cumin seeds, lightly crushed
1 & 3/4 cups maple sugar (or a natural brown sugar like turbinado or demerara)
1/2 gallon jar

Directions:

1. Wipe each fruit with a damp paper towel, then with a dry one. Make sure they are 100% free of water as this can cause mold during the preserving process. It is a good idea to let them sit out in a warm dry place for an hour or so after cleaning.

2. Warm the maple sugar and lemon juice slowly in a small saucepan until sugar melts. Turn up the heat and boil for 2-3 minutes, just until the mixture looks slightly syrupy. Leave to cool in pan.

3. When crushing the spices, make sure the fennel and cumin still retain some shape. You don’t want to crush them to a powder. The black pepper can be crushed as fine as you like. Combine the salt and spices.

4. Slice off the button ends of the kumquats, and then slice the entire fruit in half lengthwise. If you see blatant seeds take them out. But you don’t need to dig out the very small concealed ones. Slicing the kumquats completely in half allows you to easily add the spice mixture. Just toss the whole lot together in a bowl, then transfer to a 1/2 gallon jar and pour the syrup over top.

Additional Notes

You’ll want to keep them either on a sunny windowsill or outside in the sun if you are in a warm climate. If you put them outside, be sure to bring them in at night. When making pickles like these, the timing depends on the temperature and will vary. Give it a check at the 2 week mark, and then every couple of days after that. It’s really up to you how soft you would like to let the kumquats become. I like mine still a bit toothsome, but definitely soft enough to chew freely. As the citrus breaks down, the syrup will become thicker. Once they are to your liking, store them in the fridge for a year or more. At this point they will be broken down enough to fit in a quart container. Or better yet, distribute them into even smaller containers and go through one at a time.

You can eat this anywhere you would an Indian pickle or chutney – accompanying all manner of curry, flatbreads, or mixed rice dishes. I particularly like it simply atop warmed basmati rice with a spoonful of yogurt for a quick lunch.

Fermenting Chiles

These may look innocent enough to you

But that’s because your eyes aren’t watering from the heat. If you’re a chile head like me, or another person I know then you might like what I’m about to tell you. I like my chiles homegrown (or local farmer grown) and I like my chiles all year ’round.

Fermenting Chiles

1/2 pound of chiles (or mild peppers if you’re more of a sweet head)
1 pint of water
1 & 1/4 tablespoons of sea salt
1 quart container

Directions:

1. Wash and dry the chiles, leave them whole if they are small, cut in pieces if larger. Place in the quart container.

2. Dissolve the salt in the water and pour over chiles to cover. Important: you need to make sure the chiles are completely submerged in the brine. I placed a smaller sized jar on top (inside the larger jar) to help submerge the chiles. I also had brine left over which I sealed in the top jar in case I need more brine once the chiles start to ferment. You can always make more brine if you need, using the ratio above.

You don’t need a jar in a jar, you can put them in a bowl that fits a plate inside, and some kind of weight on top of that. Make sure whatever you use is clean of course.

3. Keep the chiles at room temperature, checking the next day, and the day after to make sure they are still submerged. Add more brine if you need.

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4. You may see a bit of something that looks like ‘scum’ form on the top of the brine, and/or the jar or plate you have submerged.

That’s ok. Just skim it off and rinse off the jar or plate and replace it, making sure the chiles are submerged. Everything should calm down in a few days. Then you can pretty much leave it alone and just check every 3 days or so to make sure all is in order.

5. In about 3 weeks or so, give them a taste. They should have all of that chile goodness, with an added tang of sour (Yum!). When you deem them ready, drain the brine into a saucepan, bring to a boil and skim off any residue on top. Let the brine cool.

6. Put the chiles into a clean jar, pour the boiled & cooled brine over, cap the jar and place in fridge.

…That my peeps, is how I enjoy homegrown chiles all year – or at least through the winter months. I use them for cooking all manner of curries and stir-frys, and anywhere fresh chiles are called for in cooking.

I also enjoy these babies fresh from the jar whenever a dish needs a little – or a lot of – heat.

Can Jam Round-Up: Asparagus

I was in a real pickle about where to post all these amazing asparagus recipes this month.

I think I made the right choice.


Pickles, Pickles & More Pickles!

asparagus pickles – post-industrial eating, they look gorgeous! And I am so happy you are back on your feet. I think you are going to enjoy these little lovelies when you pop them open!

bloody mary asparagus – locally preserved, some like it hot, and some like it hotter (me). Love the horseradish and hot sauce additions!

last minute pickled asparagus spears – put-a-lid-on-it you are a trooper you are. Your little one is gonna love pickles I tell ya!

pickled asparagus – café del manolo as a garnish for ceaser salad! sounds like a perfect pairing! Makes me want to pickle some spears right now!

pickled asparagus – flamingo musings but I love rhubarb & fennel!! Er, nevermind…we’re talkin’ about asparagus here and it’s one of your favorites (whew!). About that recipe…what? You don’t have 22 lbs. of asparagus laying around?

pickled asparagus – nutmeg, nutmeg…love the nutmeg! (Ahem, and please see below regarding local!) 🙂

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pickled asparagus – I think you are really going to like these…the lemon adds a nice twist!

pickled asparagus – mother’s kitchen tellin’ it like it is…thanks for that link! A can jammer can never be too informed!

pickled asparagus – hip girl’s guide to homemaking, I totally dig your resourcefulness! And it’s all about a kitchen eco-system. It’s very important when trying to eat seasonally, locally, & stretching all that year round.

pickled asparagus & fiddleheads – backyard farms I absolutely love the way you fiddled with this recipe!

pickled asparagus with curry & spices – prospect: the pantry ok, I love anything curried! I am really curry-ous (had to) to know how these turned out, let us know! …oh, and talk to Joel above about floaters. 😉

spicy pickled asparagus – café Libby ya need to pack ’em in, pack ’em in, and maybe give ’em a seat belt ala well preserved. But they’ll taste just as good, so no worries!

spicy pickled asparagus – sustainable pantry thank you so much for that tip on Chinese medicine – now I have an excuse to be a sour puss! 😉 …and don’t worry, June 1st is almost here. But I am sure you will enjoy this little jar!

spicy pickled asparagus – oh briggsy! I love how you peeps put two and two together…asparagus & booze. Why not? Works for me.

tarragon pickled asparagus – notes from a country girl living in the city oh how very French of you! Tarragon she adds…for sure you are gonna love these! Let us know when you pop them open!