My tomatoes might have been a little worse for wear after my 3 week absence, most of them took a suicide leap that ended in a bloody-red mess. I did however, manage to save a couple-eight pounds of them. And proceeded to make this again this year – if you have a bunch of overripe tomatoes, make it now…and thank me later. Back to the point of this post:

For those of you who have been hanging around here for quite some time, you know that I love me my chiles! This year, the chile-gods and chile-goddesses had mercy on me, and my little ‘ole plants of plenty produced big time!

I cook up this Indian-style chile pickle when I have an abundance of chiles. Any kind will do – hot or hotter. It’s cooked down, loaded with chiles, garlic and ginger, and packed with oil. So don’t even think about hot water bath canning it. I put mine in the fridge in little jars, which lasts a year or even up to two!

The depth of flavor comes from the ‘tarka’ or sputtering of the whole spices in oil. It’s a traditional Indian technique that both releases and enhances the flavor of a particular spice. I eat this pickle on anything that remotely resembles the palate of the eastern hemisphere; on top of rice, stirred into yogurt, tucked inside flatbread, beside a good curry or stew.

Hot Damn Chile Pickle!

Adapted from My Bombay Kitchen 

3 pounds chiles – any kind, stemmed & chopped into 1/2 inch pieces
1 & 1/3 cups light sesame oil (not toasted, or another vegetable oil)
1 tablespoon whole brown mustard seeds
1.5 teaspoons fenugreek seeds
1 & 1/2 teaspoons whole cumin seeds
1 & 1/2 teaspoons whole fennel seeds
3/4 cup garlic, chopped fine*
3/4 cup ginger, chopped fine*
1 teaspoon cayenne powder (optional)
1.5 teaspoons turmeric powder
1 & 3/4 cups white wine vinegar
1/4 cup light brown sugar (I use turbinado)
2 & 1/4 tablespoons sea salt

Yield: 3 pints

Directions

1. Heat oil over medium heat. Once hot, add mustard seeds. The mustard seeds will sputter and turn a light gray within 15-20 seconds. When they do, add the whole fenugreek, cumin and fennel seeds. Let them sizzle until they are just a shade darker, about 15 seconds. Very important: do not burn the spices. They should not get dark brown, err on the side of not cooking enough. If you are unsure count to 15 after you add them and you’re good!

2. Add the garlic and ginger. Let sizzle a few seconds until just lightly golden. Add the cayenne if using and the turmeric. Stir once and add the chiles. Stir.

3. Add salt, sugar and vinegar. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer on low for 45 minutes to 1 hour. If during the cooking process it sticks and seems too dry, add more vinegar by the tablespoon. Do not add water. It is done when the oil separates and sits on top (it will look similar to the photo above).

4. Let cool slightly and taste. This should be a salty pickle used as a condiment – add salt here if it needs more. Fill clean 1/2 pint or pint jars. Store in fridge for a year or more.

There have been a few inquiries about my ghee making procedure, so here goes…

But first I have to say that even I cannot believe the color of this ghee. It positively glows in real life! Grass people, cows need to eat grass! Down with dull butter! If you can’t find yourself a cow, then find yourself a farmer with a cow who lets her munch on grass all day long. Put the sunshine back in your butter. It’s good for you, good for the cows, and good for the earth!

Ok, now the ghee.

People, I’ve seen a lotta ghee recipes zipping around here in the blogosphere and I have no intentions of being the ghee police, but, I learned from a ghee making master. I learned with my own two eyes how to make ghee from the author of classic Indian cooking and classic Indian vegetarian and grain cooking. The two most seminal books on Indian cooking in the west, around since the 80’s and reprinted a kazillian times.

Just ‘sayin. Ghee

Directions:

Start with really soft best quality non-salted butter. Place it in a saucepan and put the heat on medium low. Keep cooking for about 20-30 minutes. Watch the bubbles on the top – they always go through the following steps: first all of the butter melts completely and it’s foamy on top. Then large bubbles start from the side and bubble across the top. They bubble for a while and get even larger.

After a bit, very tiny small bubbles take over and cover the top. Start checking the bottom around this time. It’s crucial not to burn it, the bottom will be just a bit browned but not burnt. This is what gives ghee that wonderful, slightly nutty flavor that is different from western clarified butter.

Pour through a strainer with a layer of butter muslin or double layer of cheese cloth directly into a mason jar. Ghee will last at room temperature for months. Room temperature should not be overly hot and do not let sun shine directly on it.

Ghee has a very high smoke point and is what I use most often in cooking. The subject of cooking fat is a wide and difficult one to navigate. I’ve always done best by following traditional food ways, and ghee has been used for cooking it seems since the beginning of time. It not only tastes divine, but it’s considered by many to be the healing nectar of the gods.

I really just have to do this…just so you know. As I’ve been sitting at my computer reading and rounding-up throughout the week I have been singing this pretty much non-stop. I mean all these sweet and juicy peaches and nectarines! Can you blame me?

And it’s not like I’d kick any plump little plums out of my kitchen either.

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imperial stone fruit preserves – put a lid on it and if that wasn’t worldly enough for you there’s this too and scones! I love a good scone recipe, you know I do!

local peach loco jam – backyard farms I love that it’s all local! Maple syrup, peaches, chiles… Wow! (ever think about growing your own citrus?) 🙂

nectarine jam – what Julia ate a straight up nectarine jam with a spot of pectin for good measure. I do agree, nectarines have there own special charm.

nectarine pear & chile jam – local kitchen this is torture. (Meaning I need some, now!)

peach blackberry jam – wine book girl I find mixed fruit jam very intriguing. Do the individual fruit tastes remain as they do in a mixed fruit pie?

peach & blueberry ginger jam – show food chef show me the food! I am not kidding. My mouth just watered at your first photo. That jam, that biscuit!

peach-plum ginger jam – food in jars the ginger juice addition sounds lovely. And I hear you on the summer canning urgency. It’s supposed to be s-l-o-w food! 😉

peach or apricot jam – family & food I think there is nothing smarter than jamming something you know you & your family like. A basic fruit jam recipe that’s tried and true I say!

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peach vanilla marmalade – flamingo musings I don’t know…are mangoes stone fruits? (well in the end, it looks like you didn’t miss them!)

perfectly simple peach preserves – married with dinner never even thought of leaving the skins on. Good to know! June Tayler’s jams are amazing, and I trust that this one is too!

plum conserve – Toronto tasting notes a true conserve! This looks awesome Sarah. And as fine a Christmas present as I could ever imagine!

plum jam with almond – mock paper scissors this jam does sound lovely. And so is that story about Madame, and her plum cake must be delicious!

plum jam with bay and vanilla – café del Manalo plum & bay, a nice combo if I do say so myself. But homemade vanilla! You just knocked it outta the park in my book! (and I LOVE the the flavor bible)

plum jam with tonka bean – prospect: the pantry I am completely intrigued. I have never heard of tonka beans, but the way you describe their flavor makes me want to find a source, pronto! And peeps, you gotta check out this too!

spiced peach jam – notes from a country girl living in the city peaches and spice and everything nice, that’s what this jam is made of.

strawberry mango jam – simply loving home this looks so beautiful in those jars. A winner indeed…your family knows what’s up!

sugar plum crumble preserves & honey pie conserve – hip girl’s guide to homemaking I would eat plums here, I would eat plum there, I would eat plums anywhere. And I would most definitely eat them in these two lovely preserves!

Chutney

plum chutney – my caffeine diary yes those look like romas to me. (I have a roma tree but it doesn’t produce anymore). Ok, so about those hard skins, cook the plums until the skins soften (10 min. or so) and then add the sugar. It helps immensely.

Sauces & Salsas

garlic plum sauce – locally preserved this looks very versatile indeed. And trust me I feel for you north westerners and your lack of summer. That was us here in the northeast last year. Sunny times will come again!

roasted hatch peach salsa – stetted you had me at the roasted peach…of course the balsamic, cilantro and hatch peppers didn’t hurt. Bring on the chips!

spicy peach salsa – grow & resist I love when can jammers are inspiring other can jammers! (And great tip about freezing the whole peaches – thanks!)

zesty peach barbecue sauce – just the right size do you think it would be good on tofu?

Fruit in Syrup

blackberries in syrup – bigger than a breadbox blackberries are stone fruits? v-e-r-y interesting. Look, the real point is, you got your can in the kitchen and canned! Bravo! 🙂

canned peaches – putting by she’s right when she tells you: get those air bubbles out and get some more syrup in there!

honey peaches with mint – mother’s kitchen ha! Very funny story (of course after knowing you didn’t get stung). Love the idea of mint – must add just the right note to those sweet peaches.

canned peaches – knit and knosh another basic canned peach recipe – but you have to look up the recipe yourself in the good ‘ole ball blue.

gently gingered peaches – Rufus & clementine not that I’m scolding, but it’s a really good idea to read the whole recipe before you get started…or eat the whole peach, and just forgettaboutit! 😉

canned peaches in light syrup – oh, briggsy… first off let me say that I happen to get really excited about winter squash, but anywayz…a solid canned peach recipe here and some apricot jam too!

Yes we did a lotta marmalades this month. It was so great to see so many versions and techniques …and citrus!

And pretty incredible to read all of your posts, so much enthusiasm, so much creativity, …so much citrus! My friends, we are off to one hell of a jam! Just look at what we did!:

Marmalades:

blood orange marmalade – rufus & clementine tenacity? I’ll say; at first she didn’t like the set, so she popped the tops, added the juice and bam! Perfection!

blood orange marmalade – post-industrial eating a lotta learnings; 1)using a mandolin 2)patience, & 3) small batching. Nice!

blood orange marmalade – sticks rocks and dirt Sara says she has a problem: now every time she goes to the store she wants to buy more citrus to can. Problem? What problem?

blood orange port ginger marmalade – the 3 canners, I particularly like the last ingredient – but don’t you think you should add a 4th? (For moi!)

chili orange marmalade – for better or worsted not spicy enough? Maybe try some little Thai babies next, or some haba-haba-habs! Yowch!

clementine marmalade – simply loving home, oh my darlin’ oh my darlin’ oh my darlin clementine…Melanie’s not sure, but her dad sure will be!

four (and a quarter) fruit marmalade – flamingo musings no bitterness in the citrus party in a jar! Or if you like a little bitter-umph try her ruby red grapefruit marmalade.

grapefruit marmalade – the artisanry of acorn cottage, Alison took a page out of nigella’s book…It’s all about the boiled fruit.

Yeah I know as well as you do that strawberries don’t have heads but I can call it that if I want. Why? Because this past weekend, in one of my finer pilgrim moments (ever wonder if they were actually grim?) I made 21 jars of it.

Ok, so they may not have heads (the strawberries that is) but they are shrunken, which intensifies their berryness. And bobbing around in a sea of rhubarb, well let me just say….if an actual pilgrim actually made this oh I don’t know… she would have been hanged.
(I am in Massachusetts you know).

It’s that good. Now on to the reason I brought up pilgrims in the first place…this jam takes a few days to make. I know, I know, why take a few days to jam strawberries & rhubarb when there are so many recipes out there that do it in a day…a couple of hours even. Because it’s worth it.

This is beyond slow food people …it’s pilgrim time! speaking of pilgrimages, this year I was not alone at thompson finch farm. M’s mom, otherwise known as my favorite mother-in-law, helped with the 40 pound bounty.

She likes strawberries.

See:
It’s all about timing it correctly and it is not difficult at all, so get that b outta your bonnet and get on it!

Rhubarb & Shrunken Strawberry Head Jam

4 1/2 pounds strawberries – after the hull
7 1/2 cups of sugar*
juice of 2 smallish lemons

2 1/4 pounds rhubarb – sliced lengthwise, then diced
3 3/4 cups sugar*
Juice of 1 smallish lemon
About 15 half pint jars, or 8 pint jars

*I always use raw sugar which is why my jams look a bit darker than most. I know that most jamming books suggest white sugar so as not to darken the color or alter the taste. I rarely eat white sugar so I can’t bring myself to put it in jams. It’s up to you, just don’t use brown or any other from of sweetener or you will alter the color/taste/gel greatly.

This recipe can easily be cut in half. Yes, the ingredients are in two separate groups because you have to make two separate jams. I will assume you want to make it in the evening and lay it out that way, but you can switch it around to do the final jamming in the morning if that better suits you. Here goes:

Day 1 -in the am
1. Rinse and drain the strawberries before they are hulled, I even dry them out on a paper towel first before I hull them to get off excess water. To hull just take the green off, don’t dig in the the center of the berry. keep them whole.

2. Place them in a stainless steel pot with sugar (just the 7 1/2 cups). Start with a layer of berries and then a layer of sugar, etc. Pour juice of 2 lemons over. Place top on pot and let macerate out of fridge for 8 or so hours.

Day 1 -in the pm
1. Separate the berries from the juice – use a handled skimmer or strainer and take the berries out and place them in a bowl, keeping the juice in the pan. I like to place the berries in a colander over a bowl, and then pour the excess juice back in the pan. Remember you are trying to keep the strawberries whole and intact so you want to be careful. Bring the juice to a boil and boil for 5 minutes. Take off heat and place the strawberries back in the hot syrup. Cover and leave to macerate out of fridge overnight.

Day 2 -in the am
1. Keeping the strawberries in the syrup this time bring the whole thing to a boil. Once it boils take off heat and let macerate for 8 hours out of fridge.

Day 2 -in the pm
Bring strawberry mixture to boil then macerate as above.

Day 3 -in the am
Bring strawberry mixture to boil then macerate as above.

1. Clean and mince rhubarb and place in a bowl with remaining sugar and juice of 1 lemon. you can stir this a bit. Let this macerate out of fridge until ready to jam.

2. Get your jars together – clean them in hot soapy water or put in the dishwasher.

Day 3 -in the pm
Bring strawberry mixture to boil and macerate as above.

(You’re not seeing quadruple people, this boiling of the berries has to be done 4 times, that’s how we get shrunken strawberry heads!)

Here’s where it all kicks in so plan accordingly! Allow yourself a couple of hours to jam.

1. Start by placing your clean jars in the canning pot and turning up the heat to sterilize them in boiling water for 10 minutes. You should also place 3 small plates in the freezer – you will use these to check the set later.

2. Separate the berries from the syrup as in step 1 under day 1 -in the pm.

3. Bring the syrup to the boil and boil for 5 minutes.

4. Return the berries to pan and bring to the boil. Make sure it comes back to a solid boil, skim foam gently if needed. Take off heat.

5. Separate the rhubarb from its juice (using the same technique as the strawberries). Pour syrup into its own pan and bring it to a boil. Continue boiling until it reaches 221 degrees on a candy thermometer, skimming any foam off of the top.

6. Add the diced rhubarb and bring back to a boil. Boil for 5 minutes, continuing to skim if needed.

7. Combine rhubarb and strawberry mixtures and bring to a boil for 3 minutes or until set. To check, take off the heat and place a teaspoon of jam on one of the frozen plates. Place the plate back in the freezer for about a minute. Then run finger through jam and see if it it wrinkles under your finger slightly. If it is not sufficiently set, bring back to a boil for another minute and then try again. You may need to do this a couple of times.

There is no store-bought pectin here, and strawberries are not high in natural pectin at all, so do not expect this jam to be highly gelled. But it will gel sufficiently and not be runny for sure. You don’t want to overcook this, the strawberries should remain whole and the pieces of diced rhubarb fairly intact.

Meanwhile, back at the canning pot; I trust that your jars have been boiling for at least 10 minutes (once they have, turn burner on low).

8. Boil filled jars for 5 minutes in a hot water bath and there you have it! See those little strawberry heads in there? -yum!
One more thing that you might find useful, strawberries freeze beautifully, and here’s the trick:

1. Rinse them in cold water before you hull them.
2. Drain and place on paper towel.
3. Hull – just take the green leaves off – do not dig into berry.
4. Place on cookie sheet or plates and freeze.
5. Once frozen, put them in bags.

Here in the northeast, I like to think of this time of year as almost summer. Because even if I’m wearing a scarf when going outside, or need to pull out my puffy coat for one final day or two, when the light starts to change, everything changes. Without fail, one fine evening in March or April when I’m cooking dinner in my city digs, I look up and realize – damz! It’s still bright outside! And it’s uphill from there until at least October as far as I’m concerned.

As soon as it’s almost summer I long to get my paws on some luscious summer fruit. Rhubarb first, then strawberries, gooseberries, and before long an abundance of blues hang like baubles right outside my door complete with birds diving like missiles directly into the surrounding nets for a forbidden taste. Peaches, plums, apricots, oh, and how could I forget the most fleeting of all – raspberries.

This particular almost summer I am happy to get my paws on a brand new preserving book, the sequel in fact to one of the best all around preserving books of recent years.  This one focuses on, you guessed it, fruit!

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Having worked quite a bit with Sherri’s first preserving book, I was very excited to receive my copy of put ‘em up! fruit from her generous publisher, Storey. A lot of great recipes here for sure – blueberry ketchup (I must try!) grapefruit sections in lavender syrup, maraschino cherries (if that doesn’t impress your friends, nothing will!) and five spice plum sauce to name just a few. What I also love about this book is the troubleshooting section – concise instructions and tips on how to avoid such mishaps as the dreaded fruit float, siphoning, cloudy jelly, and preserves too thick or too thin. There’s also primers on acid, pectin, and reaching the gel point – essential things to know when putting your fruit in jars.

By now most of you that have spent anytime around here at all know

I have a thing for Indian lemon pickle. Those fine specimens of fermented perfection that do me right everywhere from curries, to flatbreads to yogurt and rice… You may even know that I got married in Rajasthan and traveled around for a month, where I kid you not –
that whole month I never longed for a morsel of any other persuasion than those sultry masalas.

But here’s the thing- Way before I lost, for a moment, my breath at the first sight of the Taj Mahal. Or tried to coax it back in & out, respectively, in the middle of the night while traveling down a 4 lane highway at 70mph realizing I was looking straight into the eyes of a caravan of cargo carrying camels…

I was seduced by this:

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And this too:

Lest you think my palate promiscuous, let me explain:

(I sort of half prepared a discourse about growing up in an Italian-American-Slovakian home and while those flavors and textures will always be part of who I am, my world literally opened up when I began to experience the world. Not only by the good fortune and wherewithal of actually getting to these places, but by experiencing them on the palate. And how, even when one cannot actually trot around to all those faraway places, the palate can. And by studying world food cultures, one can learn a whole lotta ’bout the cultures of the world.)

But basically all I’m sayin’ is variety is the spice of life baby. (Ok, my palate’s a tramp)

So I’m there with my 5 lb. bag of carrots thumbing though a myriad of canning books looking for something to get excited about when as luck would have it, excitement came knocking at my door.

By way of a friendly neighbor carrying a paper bag swelling it seemed with these:

Of those carrots and apples, I made this:

Another thing that happens around this time of year: I start to get antsy about using up all of my freezer-preserved produce in anticipation of the coming season. Rhubarb and strawberries’ days are numbered in the late winter months because they are some of the first things to spring forth in the new season. These two happenings combined prompted me to make this:

Without further ado:

Carrot Apple Butter with Cardamom