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Rhubarb Lavender Shrub

Ok, I swear I think this is going to be the last of the rhubarb posts for this year. That isn’t to say that my Willy Wonka rhubarb patch is not going to continue to give. It’s just that I really do need to move on.  This season has been a busy one for me, busy with work, and I fear even more lack of time to flex my preserving prowess in the coming weeks. :(

I think I may have missed strawberry season entirely in the northeast. (Did I?)

But never you mind with that because this little shrub-o-mine consists of one of my absolute favorite flavor combinations.

Shrubs are about the easiest thing you could ever make. At their simplest they are equal part fruit, sugar, and vinegar. Mixed with water or sparkling water they make a refreshing summer drink sans alcohol, or use as a base for a cocktail and you’ve got a whole other party going on. For all you’ve ever wanted to know about shrubs, read this great post over at serious eats.

There’s two ways to make a shrub, either by cooking the fruit, or by what is called the cold-process method. I prefer the cold-process method as it retains the fresh fruit flavor. Cold-infused herbs render a much brighter herbal flavor also. Plus, you can be lazy about the whole process, which I like.

Rhubarb Lavender Shrub

Yield: 1 & 1/2 quarts

Ingredients:

I’ve got that rhubarb out of the way just in the nick of time, ’cause I got blueberries coming at me! Lots of them! (as long as I can keep the birds at bay) Wait! Did I just say blueberries & bay?!  That sounds like another perfect shrub combo!

Sri Lankan Mustard

Sri Lankan Mustard

Adapted from At Home with Madhur Jaffrey

6 tablespoons yellow mustard seeds
4 cloves garlic, diced
1 & 1/2 inch slice ginger, peeled and diced
1 cup apple cider vinegar
3 teaspoons cayenne powder
3 1/2 teaspoons sea salt
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
4 teaspoons sugar

Directions

1. Place mustard seeds, garlic and ginger in a bowl or jar and cover with the vinegar. Let stand for 24 hours at room temperature.

2. Place vinegar mixture in blender, add cayenne, salt, turmeric and sugar and blend until a creamy consistency is reached. You can add a bit more vinegar if it is too dry.

3. Once blended, place in jar and let stand at a cool room temperature for 3 days. Store in the fridge thereafter.

Strawberry Preserves: Smokin

Actually we already went, Julia, Kate, Shae and I. We had fun and of course we ate, took photos of what we ate. So then I got home with 15 pounds of strawberries. I escorted about a pound of the cutest, easiest looking ones (more on that shenanigan in the coming days).

6 lbs. were rinsed, hulled, tossed with the juice of two lemons & 7 cups of sugar, and put in the fridge to relax. And it’s really quite amazing how fast the remaining 7 or so pounds just disappeared. I didn’t make anything else with them, they just kind of vanished into chomping teeth.

If you know what I mean. Anyway, back to the 6 lbs. in the fridge:

First, you must know that strawberries are not the easiest thing to set up for a year’s worth of boxed-pectin free preserves.

I mean, in theory they are. But if you’re really aiming for a true preserve, not a syrup, and you want the fresh taste of the berry to shine, with not a trace of that over-cookedness that can happen so easily in the thick of things – or the attempt there of. Then it takes a little know-how or a little luck or some of these:

Strawberry Preserves: Smokin

2 lbs. strawberries, washed, hulled and left whole (fresh or frozen)
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup filtered water
zest (1 heaping tbsp.) & juice (about 1/3 cup) of 1 large organic lemon
2 dried chipotle peppers, stems removed, coarsely chopped (I included all the seeds)
pinch salt
2 tbsp. honey

Directions

  1. Day 1. If berries are frozen, rinse under warm water to begin thawing. Combine strawberries, sugar, water, lemon zest & juice, chipotle peppers and salt in a heat-proof bowl. Mix well and allow to macerate, at room temperature for a few hours, to allow juice to be drawn out of the berries, then refrigerated overnight, for up to 24 hours.
  2. Day 2. Strain juice from berries into a large pot or preserving pan. Bring syrup to a boil an boil for 5 minutes. Return berries to bowl, pour hot juice over fruit, cover and refrigerate overnight.
  3. Day 3. Transfer berries & juice to a preserving pan. Bring to a simmer. (Stir minimally, if at all; remember you want to preserve the berries intact.) Remove from heat, cover, and allow to rest, at room temperature or refrigerated, for about 8 hours. Bring to a simmer again, then return to the heat-proof bowl, cover and refrigerate overnight.
  4. Day 4. Repeat Day 3: bring fruit to a simmer twice during the day, about 8 (ish) hours apart. Refrigerate overnight.
  5. Day 5. Repeat Day 3 once again. Refrigerate overnight.
  6. Day 6. Prepare canner, jars & lids.

add

Strain juice from berries into your preserving pan (strawberry juice will foam a lot; I use a 5-quart Dutch oven for this step). The juice will have thickened considerably over the week; gently stir the berries, taking care not to break/bruise the whole fruit, to yield all of the syrupy juice; leave the berries draining over the bowl. Taste juice and add honey if desired.

Bring the juice to a full boil; continue to boil over high heat, stirring minimally if at all, until most foam has subsided and the syrup begins to bubble thickly (about 218 degrees F). Immediately add strawberries and any additional juice that has strained into the bowl. Gently stir berries into syrup; return to a boil. Cook at a low boil for another 2 minutes to heat the berries through, or until the syrup returns to 218 degrees F. Turn off heat, and with a slotted spoon, pack fruit into hot sterilized jars to 1/2-inch headspace. Ladle piping hot syrup over fruit to 1/4-inch headspace. Carefully remove air bubbles, wipe rims, affix lids and process for 5 minutes in a boiling water bath.

Kimchi

Most of you have probably heard the saying “when life hands you lemons, make lemonade.” If you’ve ever really thought about it – it makes a lot of sense.

I don’t know how your summer has been so far, but in New England it’s been cool, rainy and hardly a summer at all. I keep waiting for summer to kick in, keep waiting for tons of fruit to jam, tomatoes to paste, cukes to ferment, chilis to dry, and so on and so on…

Folks, up here in my neck of the woods, it’s been a lemon of a summer. As July catches up to August I’m realizing that I gotta work it out – I need to stop lamenting this lack of fermenting! And so I say…when New England hands you a cool and rainy summer, not a day above 75,

make kimchi!

Kimchi

Even if you’re busy making lemonade this July, I say find a cool place and give it a try. If you do, by fall you’ll be lining up those jars and emptying your local farmers market of its savoy cabbage…

And you’ll have a bunch of these little guys sitting around your kitchen making small talk:

They’re not bad conversationalists I must say…Enjoy!

Saged Pear Butter

I’ve had a lot on my plate these past few weeks- I had 2 of these in 2 nights in nyc:

Then I had 8 of these in 4 days in Miami:

In between I rounded up a big raucous bunch of allium recipes and after all that, and in a bit of a haze there was the last minute planning of a much needed vacation to California. What all this means is:

1) I’m still alive.

2) I had to get jammin’ with my can jam at the very beginning of April in NYC without even a thought of getting up to the Berkshires to experience the glorious springtime weather & check out the bounty.

3) My biggest challenge this month was getting all that stuff off my plate and some other stuff into jars.

Some of you may remember my first attempt at butter; though good, it was a tad too sweet. I want a fruit butter that tastes like the fruit it is with just enough sweetness to be on the side of applesauce, and since I have plenty of experience enhancing jams with herbs, I wanted to see how they work with butters.

So that was the plan, and a more immediate one during my 10 minute Whole Food frenzy was finding the most potent smelling herbs I could find, and this was it:

I had a few flavor pairings in mind, and once the sage was settled on, the pear was the pairing for sure. Luckily, but not locally unfortunately, the pear section at Whole Foods was overflowing with fruit and so…

Saged Pear Butter

2 to 2 & 1/2 lbs. pears (I used Anjou)
juice of one lemon
1/8 cup champagne vinegar (or white wine)
2/3 to 1 cup sugar (I used raw)
1/4 teaspoon finely ground white pepper
1 large sprig fresh sage (approximately 15-18 leaves)
Half pint mason jars
Yield: approximately 1 & 1/2 pints

 

Directions

1) Peel pears, slice in half, core, and drop in a bowl of ice cold water with the lemon juice. This will keep them from discoloring.

2) Chop pears coarsely and place in preserving pot; add vinegar and 1/8 cup of water. Bring to a boil, then simmer until pears are just soft.

3) Sauce the pears. You have choices: you can run them through a food mill, blend in a blender, or do as I did and use an immersion blender right in the pot.

4) Add pear sauce back to the pot if you’ve taken the pears out to sauce. Put the heat on low and add sugar. Stir until sugar melts.

5) Add the ground white pepper and whole sage sprig. Turn heat up and bring to a boil.

6) Boil, stirring frequently when it begins to thicken. It will take about 35-45 minutes to reach a spreadable thickness. You will know it’s done when you can glide your stirring spoon across the bottom of the pot and see the bottom for a second or two before the butter melts back over itself.

Just when you begin to cook the sauce down you can prepare you canning pot and sterilize your jars.

7) Once desired thickness is reached, remove the sage sprig. You will have a lot of butter sticking to the sprig. Make sure to shake it off over the pan so as not to lose any of that buttery goodness.

8) Fill jars and process in a hot water bath for 5 minutes. Store in a cool, dry place for up to one year.

Note: this is a very small batch, so please double or even triple it if you’d like.

Curried Green Zebras

The tomatoes! And while I’m on the subject of tomatoes…oh how I loved him (R.I.P). He was so beautiful, inside and out. Ahem.

Ok, so back to this curry pickle: I used zebras, who happen to be green even when they’re ripe. But, for this you want green – as in unripe – tomatoes. The fleshier the better. Little zebras or any kind of paste tomato will work well.

Curried Green Zebras

2 & 3/4 lbs. green tomatoes, sliced no larger than 1/4 inch thick
1 medium white onion, sliced very thin
2 & 1/2 tablespoons sea salt
3 cups cider vinegar
1/2 cup light brown sugar
2 & 1/2 teaspoons curry powder *
1 inch fresh ginger root, peeled & thinly sliced
12 whole allspice berries
pint mason jars with 2-piece lids
yield: approximately 4 pints

 

Day 1
1. Place sliced tomatoes and onions in large bowl, gently toss with sea salt. Cover lightly with kitchen towel, let stand for 8 hours or overnight.

Day 2
1. Prepare canning pot, jars & lids. No need to sterilize the jars as once filled they will be boiled 10 minutes.

2. Drain the tomatoes and onion, rinse with cold water and drain once more.

3. Place vinegar, sugar & curry powder in a non-reactive (stainless or enameled iron) pot and bring to a boil.

4. As soon as the vinegar mixture reaches a boil, add tomatoes & onions. Bring back to a simmer and let simmer, stirring gently, until all the vegetables are just heated through, approximately 2 minutes.

5. Remove hot jars from the canning pot and place 3 allspice berries & 2 slices of ginger in each jar.

6. Fill jars, leaving 1/2 inch headspace. Hot water bath process for 10 minutes.

Crunchy, curried & slightly sweet. To me this is a classic canned pickle. A wonderful way to use up a glut (yes a glut!) of summer tomatoes. Delicious on a grilled cheese, or any other sandwich in which the classic bread and butter is the norm. The curry & spices add a punch but don’t overpower. Plus it looks so damn cute in a jar.

Learning: had a little packing problem at first. Make sure to scoot them in tightly before pouring in the brine to fill.

 

Can Jam Round-Up August: Tomatoes

Tomatoes, tomatoes, tomatoes! For many, the king of vegetables (even though we all know it’s a fruit, don’t we?)  Grown for putting up.

Just as the mighty tomato straddles the veggie-fruit kingdoms, it also straddles the level of acidity needed to safely water bath can. A lot of old recipes don’t add acid before hot water bath canning, but modern times call for such measures. So if you’re trying this at home, make sure to use a source that follows the current USDA guidelines. Or go straight to the source yourself.

crushed tomatoes – bigger than a breadbox I hope you’ll be thinkin’ of me during the winter when you sit down to a nice hot bowl of tomato something-or-other!

crushed tomatoes – wine book girl ooh! Bloody Mary with homemade tomato juice and dilly beans. Yikes! Thanks for that – I’m in trouble.

tomatoes packed in water – Rufus and clementine ya see nik (I do see that you saw) when it comes to tomatoes simple is usually better. There’s time to get fancy when you open the jar.

ketchup – market life sf very good tip on subbing in some cherries, and the fennel looks like a nice addition. Can you taste it in the finished product?

ketchup – putting by more homemade ketchup! You people are all caught up in the ketchin’ up! Sounds like it was a hit, and just a little less celery seed next time! And this just in: bbq sauce!

orange tang ketchup – hip girl’s guide to homemaking this ketchup is gorgeous! The color, and I am so down for small batch anything miss kickass! (Oh, and peeps, watch the clip!)

spicy ketchup – locally preserved this looks nice, immersion blenders are where it’s at, no? …and I like the spice! 🙂

tomato ketchup – what Julia ate if I had a jar of this it would be all over my scrambled eggs! What? Yeah right, like you don’t. 😉

Sour Cherries: Two Classic Preserves

You need to run, run I tell you! Get to your closest farm, stand, market or u-pick and get yourself some sour cherries. Now! Giddy up!

Go! Ok, now that that’s taken care of, stuff a few in your mouth, and a bunch more into a pie or two. Now, get dem in de jars! ‘Cause when winter whitewashes over you and your town, you can take a woolen-socked jaunt into your larder and pull out one of these babies.

And when you pop one open and let the glory of summer do cartwheels in your mouth you can say, “thank you.”

Or, you can forget you ever knew me and collapse in the deliciousness of it all. Take your pick.

Simple Sour Cherries

adapted from Urban Pantry

For every 4 pounds of sour cherries you will need:

6 cups water
scant 1 cup sugar (I use raw)
1 pint mason jars

Yield: each pound of fruit makes approximately 1 pint of simple sour cherries.

Prepare jars and canning pot for hot water bath processing. You do not need to sterilize jars as you will be processing the filled jars for 25 minutes.

1. Rinse, then pit cherries. I definitely recommend this or other some-such contraption. Take care to keep cherries as intact as possible.

2. Heat water and sugar on low in a small saucepan. Once sugar has completely dissolved, turn the heat up and bring to a boil. Once boiling, return heat to low and simmer until ready to use.

3. Fill jars with raw cherries. Tap the jars firmly on a towel covered counter top, and fill them again. Continue to do this until you can get not one more cherry in the jar with a 1/2 inch headspace.

4. Place 6 cherry pits in each jar; this lends a very slight bitter almond flavor. Pour any remaining cherry juice at the bottom of the bowl evenly into jars. Top with syrup, making sure to leave a solid 1/2 inch headspace. Tap the jar again to release air bubbles and top with syrup if needed.

5. Seal jars and hot water bath process for 25 minutes.

Sour Cherry Preserves

adapted from Put ‘Em Up 

For every 3 pounds of sour cherries you will need:

1 cup sugar (I use raw)
1/4 cup lemon juice
1/2 pint or smaller mason jars

Yield: each pound of cherries makes approximately 1 cup of sour cherry preserves.

Directions

  1. Prepare jars and pot for hot water bath processing. You do not need to sterilize jars as you will be processing the filled jars for 10 minutes. Place 2 or 3 small saucers in the freezer.

2. Rinse, then pit cherries. Note: remember to wear old dark clothes or a huge apron (or even nothing at all! Shhh!)

3. Place cherries in a non-reactive pot (stainless steel or enameled iron) and crush about 1/2 of them in between fingers to release their juice.

4. Add sugar and lemon juice; heat on low until the sugar has completely dissolved. Turn up the heat and boil for approximately 20-25 minutes, or until desired set has been reached.

To test for set: take off the heat. Place a teaspoon full on a frozen plate. Place plate back in freezer for one minute. Take out of freezer and push tip of finger through preserves. If it wrinkles under the finger even a little bit it is set. If you finger slides right through with absolutely no resistance, boil for one minute longer. Repeat again as necessary.

5. Seal jars and hot water bath process for 10 minutes or jar and put directly into the fridge.

These sour cherries were so tasty, so perfectly cherry-like that I couldn’t bear to add anything more to the mix. My main goal with both was to preserve that lusty cherry taste. The jam delivers, completely. It’s mouth-puckering with just enough sweetness to woo a slice of toast and butter.

For more preserves recipes just click here.

Confiture de Vieux Garçon

If you would like to make your very first confiture de __________, then let’s do it! ‘Cause really, can you ever have enough fruit in alcohol layin’ around?

To start you need either a fermenting crock with a lid to keep air out like the one I just ordered

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Or you can use a european glass canning jar with gasket & lid.

You want a vessel that is pretty much airtight but that will also allow for the venting of fermentation gases. Size matters too; if you really want to get through the summer adding as many different types of fruit as you can, then try to get at least 1/2 gallon, or even a gallon or more. Finally, you should keep the fruit in the dark. I mean if they ask, you can tell them what’s going on.

But if you’re using a glass vessel keep it in a larder or pantry during the making of. If you are using a ball jar with screw cap, do not screw the cap on too tight because you need to allow gas to escape.

To make confiture de vieux garçon start with a layer of fruit, then cover with a layer of sugar. The traditional recipe requires an equal sugar to fruit ratio, and I’ve seen recipes that require half the weight of sugar to fruit. I’ve also read that it works with less as long as each layer of fruit is covered with sugar when added. I’m going to go with covering the fruit and not bothering with weighing. The sugar should be a fine-grained sugar so the grains are sure to dissolve.

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Then cover well with your chosen kirsch, cognac or brandy (you could also use rum). Put the lid on and store in a cool place. Repeat this process with each newly in-season fruit throughout the summer (or fall). When the final fruit is added, fill the container with alcohol to 3/4 inch from the top and let sit in a cool place for at least 3 or even 6 months before eating.

To avoid spoilage or mold it is important to use top-quality fruit free of bruises or sore spots, and dried completely before adding to container. Place each new layer on top and never stir, making sure sugar & alcohol cover the fruit completely.

Traditional fruits used are berries of all kinds; strawberries, raspberries, cherries, gooseberries, currents and grapes too.

If you know where your fruit’s been, do not wash raspberries, currents or gooseberries. remove stems, stalks, and tails respectively of strawberries, currents, grapes & gooseberries, but leave the cherries be with their stems and pits intact.

If you can find very small plums & gages you can leave them whole and add them with their stones and all. Otherwise quarter them and remove the stone. Quarter apricots and always remove their pits.

Skin, stone and quarter peaches & nectarines. Pears should be skinned, pitted and thickly sliced.

Any combination of fruit will work, but citrus is a no-no. I’ve read not to over-do the strawberries or they will dominate and I’ve also read not to add ‘foreign’ fruit. Which I’m assuming means things like papayas, mangos and the like.